3FE, Dublin

Occasionally, I'll come across a faded good review clipped from a newspaper hanging on the wall of a cafe. 3FE has a shelf filled with trophies from the Irish barista championships instead. This is one of a number of signs that suggest that 3FE is not simply another cafe.

With a bright, airy and almost industrial interior, and the hum of conversation, traffic and tunes in the air, this is the most recent incarnation of 3FE. A micro roastery in a third floor apartment became a shared space in a bookstore on Middle Abbey Street, and finally a standalone cafe / retail space on Grand Canal Street. The location has changed over the last year or two, but the quality of coffee is as good as ever. 

There is a good retail section, with a large selection of coffees from a number of different regions. Different brewing methods are catered for also - I saw an Aeropress and a Chemex woodneck on display. Both are good alternatives to espresso based drinks, with the Chemex using a paper filter to give a clean extraction, and the Aeropress using a partial vacuum to extract flavour.

As always, I started with a single espresso shot. An espresso shot tells me a lot about the quality of coffee in any cafe - for example, whether or not the beans are fresh. Despite its deceptively simple appearance, a good shot is the product of a number of different variables - grind size, extraction time and pressure. Getting it right is not simply a question of pushing a button and hoping for the best - so a well executed shot speaks volumes about the barista - it's the end result of hours of practice, and patience.

The espresso shot arrived with a dark red / brown crema, which I associate with freshly roasted beans. The volume was somewhere between a ristretto and an espresso - this tells me that the extraction time was correct, which gives a shot that is not too bitter (under extracted) or harsh (over extracted). There was a smooth, rich flavour which reminded me of brown sugar or licorice, with no harsh or burnt notes, and a syrupy, not astringent, mouthfeel - everything I look for in a well executed shot.

The cappuccino that I ordered paired velvety smooth microbubbles with the underlying coffee character of the shot above. The espresso is not drowned out by the steamed milk - it's still there - but it is complemented by the smoothness of the foam. The end result is a hybrid of potent espresso tempered by smoothness. 

One thing that I noticed (apart from the well executed latte art) is that the barista asked if I wanted one or two espresso shots - this is a nice touch, allowing different tastes and preferences to be catered for. There is also a drip bar, for anyone who prefers pourover coffees, with three different blends (la pira, la perla and mugera) on the menu. Small details can also tell me a lot about a cafe - the weighing scale on the counter is a good example. This suggests that specific weights of  ground coffee are used for each type of coffee bean - it's another indication of time and effort spent to produce quality coffee.

The staff deserve a special mention also, engaged and knowledgeable about coffee, a passion for what they do shines through. Good things happen when people follow their passion - the proof was sitting on the table in front of me, in the form of a perfect espresso shot.

When Things Go Wrong, Part 3

I've had a lot of espresso shots on my travels - from stand up espresso bars on the streets of Rome that have remained unchanged for decades, to pop up coffee bars started by a new generation of enthusiastic young baristas. There have been some very good espresso shots, some just about average shots, and occasionally shots that were so bad that I couldn't even finish them.

The shot below falls into the third category. This was supposed to be a single espresso, however this is clearly an over extracted shot, where the volume of liquid is closer to that of a double espresso. This will certainly have an impact on the quality of the shot, as a continued extraction will result in unpleasant flavours. This was certainly the case - my first impression was of a very unusual aftertaste, which reminded me of styrofoam or rubber. We're not off to a great start with this one.

After the crema had dissipated, I noticed a sheen of oil droplets coating the shot. There was also a smell of frying permeating the cafe where this was served. What may have happened is that the extraction system in use in the cafe is inadequate, and that the aerosolised droplets of oil have coated the coffee cups. When a shot is pulled, the cooking oil floats on top of the liquid, infusing flavour into the coffee, and not in a good way. This was also apparent in the cafe's milk based drinks - there was an unusual aftertaste of butter, which is something that I don't particularly want to experience again.

Something was still not quite right however. Even by looking at the shot, I could see that something was still wrong. An espresso shot in a quality coffee will contain black liquid, but one which is also quite clear - there should be nothing floating in it. The shot below was a murky brown colour, and contained a significant  amount of very fine coffee particles. It's obvious in the picture below - the darker portion at the centre of the spoon contains the particles in question. This suggests that the grinder settings are incorrect, and are producing too fine a grind for espresso shots. The machines themselves are not at fault - both the grinder and espresso machine themselves were commercial grade - but they way in which they are being used is incorrect.

It's interesting to note that very finely ground coffee and an over extracted shot should be two mutually exclusive events. It's much, much easier to over extract a shot when the grind size is too coarse, and steam can pass through the ground coffee much more easily. A fine grind should offer more resistance, slowing the passage of steam through the coffee in the portafilter, and reducing the volume of liquid in the shot. So what happened? The barista seemed uncertain when I ordered a single shot, and my have served a double shot instead. Alternatively (and I suspect that this is what happened) the shot may have been topped up with hot water, to avoid the appearance of short changing the customer by serving a half full cup - I noticed a significant amount of steam rising from the shot when it was served, and a break in the crema where hot water would have been poured in. I don't normally see steam rising from espresso shots, and certainly not in the quantity that I saw here. If this is what happened, then it speaks volumes about the cafe's approach to producing quality coffee, and of the level of coffee knowledge amongst the staff. A good friend produces quality shots in his apartment in Tampines with a simple hand grinder and a MyPressi twist - the shots that he has produced have consistently been of a much, much higher quality than the shot above, which was made with professional equipment. Why is this? He genuinely loves coffee, and has a very good understanding of coffee fundamentals - for example, how grind size and extraction times matter, and are inversely proportional to the quality of shots that are produced as a result.

Also, and this may seem like the most minor and trivial point to take issue with, I automatically deduct points when I see "expresso" on a menu. It's espresso. If you want to compete as a quality coffee place, show me that you understand the underlying product. Together with the issues above, it suggests that the level of coffee knowledge is sadly lacking, something that no amount of attempts at latte art will make up for.

As for the cappuccino (wouldn't be a complete post without an espresso and a cappuccino)...well, it's basically warm caffeinated milk, with absolutely no coffee character whatsoever, and with a powdery texture that remains in your mouth, due to the incorrect grind settings described above.

I like to give cafe's a chance to improve, and not to give them a bad review after only one visit. However, the problems above are fundamental, and I don't plan on coming back for more.

The Broers Cafe

Tucked away on a quiet side street between Jalan Besar and little India, and flanked by a quaint row of shophouses, The Broers cafe is a calm little corner that seems far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city. 

The espresso shot below had a dark crema, and an earthy, sweet aroma. The mouthfeel lacked the syrupy sweet consistency that some shots have, and was lighter and looser, more watery than viscous. My initial impression was of a strong and potent flavour, with tempered bitterness, and an aftertaste that builds after a few seconds. It's a straightforward shot that is ok, but one which lacks the complexity that I see in shots elsewhere, and does not stand out as a result. It may be that the shot is slightly over extracted, which would have an impact on the flavour and consistency. 

The cappuccino had a layer of smooth microbubbles, steamed to the right consistency, and imparts a silky smooth mouthfeel. The latte art is a nice touch, and is always good to see - it means that time and effort has gone into the process. Unfortunately, the underlying coffee character is almost entirely lost, and is drowned out by the milk and foam mixture - I just couldn't taste it. The dominant flavour is that of the milk, rather than the underlying espresso shot. It's fine for anyone who prefers a very light cappuccino, but if your preference is for stronger drinks, it's advisable to ask for an extra shot. 

There are some positives here though. There is a good menu selection for drinks, both hot and cold, as well some interesting brews that the crew have come up with themselves - they definitely score points for trying something new. There is also a very calm atmosphere, with soft, diffused light, and simple white walls contrasted against a dark wood floor - it's definitely a cafe to sit uninterrupted with a book.

It's a good choice for anyone who wants a calm, quiet place to sit uninterrupted with a book, but for complex shots, and  variety of different blends and single origin beans,  there is another well regarded cafe / roastery nearby on Tyrwhitt Road, with some very, very good coffee indeed. 

Symmetry Cafe, Singapore

It's an interesting street scene - a quiet backdrop of traditional fabric shops and food stalls, with the quiet of a weekday afternoon occasionally broken by the call to prayer from Kampong Glam mosque. It's been like that for years, with shops being passed down from generation to generation. Lately however, the area around Arab Street in Singapore has been transformed, with an increasing number of interesting cafes to be found. 

Symmetry is one such example. Located along a quiet side street (Jalan Kubor) just off Victoria Street, the nondescript exterior hides the contemporary bare brick walls and wood panelleling of the third wave cafe within.  

Symmetry is also home to the second Slayer machine in Singapore (at the time of writing) - the original is in Jimmy Monkey, at One North. The potential for good things exists - but has the potential been realised? As always, I ordered an espresso and cappuccino - two drinks that tell me a lot about the quality of coffee in any cafe. 

Espresso - there was a dark reddish brown crema, which indicates that the coffee beans used were roasted fairly recently. The volume was roughly correct for an espresso shot, maybe a little higher than in other third wave cafes though. The lack of white specks on the crema suggests that this was not an over extracted shot however, which would have an adverse effect on the quality of coffee. My first impressions were of a slight acidity, which faded slightly in the aftertaste - not uncommon with beans from South America. The shot is not too astringent, as the acidity seems to be tempered by the flavour of a more earthy, darker roasted bean in the mix. The end result is a balanced shot. 

The cappuccino arrived with well executed latte art, which is always a good sign - it shows that there is attention to detail, but more importantly that the barista has spent time and effort perfecting their craft. The microbubbles give a smooth mouthfeel, but the underlying characteristics of the espresso were still present - they were muted but not eliminated. This was a combination of milk, foam and espresso that complemented each other, rather than a mismatch of each. 

One things I did notice however - this was potent - I definitely felt the effects of caffeine afterwards. Slayer machines pack a double ristretto into each shot, rather than a conventional espresso shot - please bear this in mind when you order! 

Overall, there are well executed (but potent!) shots being served on a quiet corner of Jalan Kubor, and the presence of a slayer machine is certainly worth noting. The price was approximately $10 - $12 for an espresso and cappuccino, with a variety of food and drink options available also. 

EspressoLab, Singapore

Sometimes, less is more. The absence of certain qualities can be a positive thing - for example, a cafe that focuses on quality coffee, rather than one that sells tall skinny soy rotated twisted fruit infused concoctions, that if you close your eyes and concentrate, might even have some faint taste of coffee in there somewhere. On Bali lane in Singapore, a quiet haven for quality coffee has appeared, in the form of EspressoLab. 

The first thing I noticed was the atmosphere - some cafes have it, others don't. This is a laid back, bright and airy cafe, with light filtering onto a wooden floor. 

As always, I look for things that tell me about the owners intent and attitude towards coffee. The brew bar was a good place to start, with a syphon, a Chemex Woodneck brewer, a French press and a Hario Buono pourover kettle all on display. What does this tell me? It indicates that a variety of brewing methods are being practiced, from the clean extraction coffees of the Chemex and syphon, to the more potent and full bodied coffees of the pourover and French press. It's also a good setup for a coffee appreciation class, in which various brewing methods can be used to highlight differences in coffees from around the world. This is a good start - it suggests that the intent is to expose customers to different types of coffees and brewing methods. 

Two different coffees - an espresso and a cappuccino - tell me a lot about the quality of coffee used, and about the baristas also. 

The espresso shot was akin to a ristretto - a small volume of espresso topped with a dark reddish brown crema. A combination of beans from Brazil, Columbia, Guatemala and Indonesia, it's certainly one of the more interesting shots that I've tried lately. It was certainly potent, with the initial intensity slowly giving rise to wisps of earthy flavours, which were reminiscent of malt or cherry. It was a well executed shot, and it was obvious that the roasting process was tailored to bring out the flavours in each of the different beans used.  

The cappuccino below arrived with some impressive latte art, with sharp, defined edges of milky white foam contrasted against a dark brown background. Silky smooth microbubbles added the required mouthfeel, and  the correct ratio of milk to foam to coffee was present, so that all 3 combined perfectly. It was a little light though, with the double shot of espresso quite muted by the milk and foam - not all of the complexity of the espresso was evident. However, it's still a good, well executed cappuccino that I would have no problem ordering again. 

This is a good choice of cafe for lingering over a book with a cup of coffee to hand. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable about coffee, and contribute so much to the atmosphere - it's not something that every cafe can get right. Together with coffee, it's something that EspressoLab does well, and makes it worth a visit. 

In my case, this is probably true...