Jewel Coffee, Singapore

There are certain things that I associate with Shenton Way in Singapore. Suits, skyscrapers and spreadsheets, to name just the things that begin with "s". Single origin coffee can now be added to the list, in the form of Jewel Coffee, beneath the polished glass and steel exterior of One Shenton.

Jewel played a role in my coffee education, in the form of a cupping / coffee appreciation session after work on evening in Changi. I spent an evening learning to appreciate the differences between different blends and varities of beans from different regions, and even today I still use some of the lessons learned that evening.

Espresso shots tell me a lot about a cafe. The crema tells me how fresh the beans are, the volume of fluid tells me if the extraction time is correct, and the taste tells me if the roasting profile is suitable for the bean. So how did Jewel measure up?

The volume was perfect, with a medium dark crema. The dominant flavour in the shot is citrus - but it's a shot where the astringency is very evident - as much a sensation as a flavour, an intense hit of citrus that awakens your taste buds, with an aftertaste that fades out slowly. The mouthfeel has some syrupy elements, but not overwhelmingly so either.

The choice of single origin beans is a nice touch - when I visited, beans from Costa Rica and El Salvador were being served. Each has distinct tasting notes (mandarin orange hits and brown sugar for the Costa Rica, lingering sweetness and dark fruits for the El Salvador), however I found that the citrus elements were dominant in each. I'll never complain about single origin coffees on a menu - it's a sign of how far coffee culture has come, and it directly benefits the farmers who grow the beans in question. However, it could be a good idea to have one strong citrus single origin and one robust, earthy and less floral single origin paired with each other. This is not a complaint by any means, just a recognition of different tastes and preferences.

The cappuccino that I ordered came with smooth foam that complemented, rather than drowned out, the underlying coffee flavour. The layer of microbubbles added the required smooth mouthfeel, while allowing the coffee flavour to dominate. The layer of foam and serving size were just as they should be, ensuring that this was separate and distinct from a latte. The latte art, and contrast of light on medium dark foam, was a welcome touch.

There is a very good selection of drinks on the menu, with Chemex, V60, Syphon and Iced coffees available. I always like to see Chemex coffees available - it's notable for producing very clean brews which highlight the underlying characteristics of each blend or variety. It's a good method to begin to appreciate the differences in blends from different regions.

There are some retail items available also - I spotted Chemex and V60 pourover accessories on the shelf. The bean selection is quite good, with beans from Guatamela (Antigua), El Salvador (El Cordon), Nicaragua (Los placeros), Ethiopia (Sidamo) and Sumatra available, for $18 each.

This is a good choice for quality coffee if you work in the Shenton way area, along with Oriole and Club St Social - but it is more expensive, with a single espresso priced at $4.20. The sheer choice of coffee blends and brewing types makes this worth visiting however.

Smitten Coffee and Tea Bar, Singapore

Over the last few years, Robertson Quay has been transformed from a quiet residental strip by the Singapore river, into an eclectix mix of restaurants and cafes. Every new apartment block seems to bring with it a new French bistro, or a Japanese teppanyaki grill straight from the winding alleys of Shinjuku. The overall effect is that the area reminds me of Clarke Quay, if the bars were replaced by restaurants. Hidden amongst the mix of eateries is a small cafe that is punching above it's weight - Smitten Coffee and Tea bar.

This is a roastery that seems to be bigger on the inside that it appears on the outside. The use of space is clever - by placing most of the seating outside, Smitten can function as a roastery, retail space and full service cafe. The fact that it is a roastery allows Smitten to compete with larger cafes - their coffee is always fresh, and they have their own unique blends on the rack. The retail space is very specalised - tampers, cone drippers, stovetop espresso makers, filter baskets, grinders, and knock boxes line the shelves - this is a good option for any aspiring home barista.

 

The espresso shot I ordered came with a dark brown crema, and the correct volume of liquid for a single shot. No surprises there - dark brown cremas are the product of beans which have been roasted recently. This was a nicely balanced shot, combining an underlying tempered robustness with tart notes. The astringency is fine, neither too bitter nor too overpowering, and the mouthfeel has more syrupy than watery characteristics. So far, so good.

The first thing that I noticed on the cappuccino below was the latte art - there is a distinct contrast of light on dark, and very defined borders. The foam layer is fine - the thickness is ideal, remaining intact until the last drops of coffee are consumed. It seems like something small to single out, but i'm surprised at how many cafe's get this wrong. The microbubbles in the foam added smoothness, and took the edge off the strong underlying espresso shot. The aftertaste does not linger, making this a "clean", mellow drink - the coffee hit is in the first few seconds. It's a balanced, well executed cappuccino with no issues.

There are also alternatives available for people who prefer brewed or pourover coffees. V60 and Chemex brews are availble, with beans from Brazil, Ethiopia (Yirgacheffe) and Tanzania (Kilamanjaro). There is also a selection of cakes and deserts available too.

This is the little cafe that could - it's punching above it's weight, and turning out some decent, consistent shots - this is a good choice for a lazy Sunday by the river.

Jimmy Monkey

I could smell coffee while I was walking up to the cafe. This is a good thing, and generally speaks of good things to come.

 

One North is a hive of activity during the week, a hub of biomedical and scientific research in the West of Singapore. In a quiet corner of One North Residences, research of a different kind is taking place. Interesting blends of beans are being paired together, in a little corner of Melbourne which has been transported to Singapore - Jimmy Monkey cafe and bar.

 

 

I've mentioned Jimmy Monkey in previous posts - their Piccolo latte stands out in particular - and it's a haven for coffee lovers in the West of the island. Jimmy Monkey is also a full service bar and restaurant, and provides a number of good reasons to catch a circle line to One North station.

 

Anyone who has read the blog before will have a good idea of how this works. Over the course of a series of visits, I order drinks (usually an espresso and cappuccino) that tell me a lot about a cafe, and the quality of coffee. So how did Jimmy measure up?

 

Fly, my pretty, fly!

 

Espresso - this was a potent, robust and strong shot with a lingering aftertaste, but also a good balance of taste and flavours. This is not surprising - Jimmy Monkey's Ironbark blend is a combination of beans from Brazil (Cerrado), Papua New Guinea (Sigri), Columbia (Kachru), Guatamala (La Laguna) and Peru (Amazonas). There is also a Columbian single origin blend available, which works well in pourover coffee. Each bean variety contributes something unique to the shot - hints of citrus, and even some chocolate notes. Ironbark is a blend that is still evolving, and is now on it's third iteration (version 3.142, according to the note on the grinder - a nice in joke, along with some pop culture references hidden on the menu! It doesn't take a lot to make my day). The experimentation has paid off, leaving a full bodied shot with a lingering aftertaste. The home made biscotti is a nice touch, with hints of orange complementing the citrus notes in the shot.

 

 

The cappuccino below was notable for the initial strong hit of coffee flavour, complemented by smooth, light foam and finished with well executed latte art. The microbubbles in the foam add the smooth, silky mouthfeel that I look for, and is seen in quality cafes. This is where Ironbark is used to good effect - the lingering aftertaste is a strong base for a milk based drink, ensuring that the fundamental coffee character is retained.

 

 

I had a Piccolo also, which is characterised by a more robust coffee taste, with the aftertaste lasting through the milk and foam. The milk complements the robust coffee flavour, smoothing it but not smothering it, creating a hybrid which retains the best characteristics of each - its just right and well executed. Their original place in the piccolo latte hall of fame post is deserved, and retained. There are also pourover, syphon and chemex coffees available. 

 

 

The effort that has gone into setting up Jimmy Monkey is evident in a number of ways. The interior is almost industrial, with high ceilings, a smooth cement barista counter and some quirky touches hidden in plain sight (hint - look up at the ceiling when you are inside. You'll know it when you see it). A Giesen roaster sits across from a Slayer machine, one of only two in Singapore at present. Slayer machines are expensive - really expensive - and for good reason. They offer significant levels of control over a number of variables (pressure, temperature etc), and have some clever design features - notably, the double ristretto that makes up every shot. A ristretto differs from a conventional espresso shot, in that it is comprised of the first ten seconds of extraction from a shot. As a result, ristrettos are punches of flavour, which are never watered down. Ristrettos are a good choice for milk drinks, as the underlying characteristics of the shot are not lost in a sea of milk. From speaking to the staff, and from the quality of coffee served, I doubt that this would happen here.

 

 

A quality machine is a good start, but the quality of the staff is an even more important factor. This is where Jimmy Monkey shines. The staff are attentive without being intrusive, picking up small details that might go unnoticed - for example, spotting that it was my wife's birthday and getting a cake ready without being asked. Small things like this result in customers becoming regulars.

 

Cafes which celebrate coffee geekery (Papa Palheta, you are sorely missed) are to be treasured, and the owner, Michael, was considerate enough enough to talk in detail about the Slayer machine. The level of detail was telling - down to the description of modifications to group heads to prevent heat loss, and of modifications to compensate for the loss in pressure and heat when multiple shots are pulled in quick succession. Coffee conversations like this result in me attaining a state of coffee nirvana, or in my case, nerdvana.

 

It's shiiiiiiny....

 

I don't normally comment on food, but this is a good place to see a busy kitchen in action, with a kitchen crew that turn orders around quickly, but who still take the time to check and plate carefully. The end results work, with some impressive creations crosing the counter. They don't skimp on portions either. It can fill up quickly though, so it's advisable to stop by earlier in the morning - there are no reservations on weekends, but the staff are flexible and helpful.

 

 

 

 

Since opening, Jimmy Monkey has been a regular part of my coffee treks around the island. Based on todays (and previous) visits, I'd recommend that anyone who likes quality coffee do the same. 

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Strangers Reunion



Kampong Bahru Road, Outram Park

I've written before about Outram Park in Singapore, where four quality cafes operate within a 10 minute walk of each other. Strangers Reunion is one of those cafes, and it doesn't disappoint. This is an interesting cafe, with a very distinct look and atmosphere, and most importantly, well crafted coffee.

The espresso shot below had a light mouthfeel, but a strong and robust flavour. It wasn't bitter or citrusy - the dominant flavour was woody and earthy. This is an interesting combination, and it worked for me. The crema on the shot was dark brown, and the volume was correct - this tells me that it's a shot made from fresh beans, extracted for the correct length of time. Bonus points for the friendly staff, who knew exactly what blend of beans were used, and were happy to talk coffee. This is great - I love seeing this in a cafe - staff who clearly love coffee too.

I ordered a cappuccino too. This was smooth as silk, with soft foam, and steamed to perfection. The coffee flavour is slightly muted by the milk, but is still there - it's a good mix of taste and texture, and one of the better cappuccinos that I've had. There is an underlying sweetness also - this is from the lactose in the milk itself, and is brought out by steaming. More importantly, it is brought about by steaming at an appropriate temperature - it's a learned skill, and this tells me that this was an experienced barista. The foam layer was about right too - by no means was this one of the "latte in disguise" coffees that I've noticed in a few places lately. 

The overall aesthetic is quite distinct - I like the overall effect. The cement floor, rugs, subdued lighting and unique furniture ensure that Strangers has carved out it's own niche, distinguishing itself from any number of independent cafe's which have opened lately. I quite like that the cafe doubles as a gallery, supporting local artists - something that encourages repeat visits.

Overall, this was a good coffee experience, and there is one more coffee place that I can add to the list of places that I would recommend to friends. What stands out for me were the staff, more than one of whom asked about the standard of coffee - this is a sign of staff who are engaged in what they are doing, and want to serve good shots. They did, and I'll be back for more.  



Are you a latte in disguise?

I make a point of trying to highlight cafes or roasteries which serve above average coffee. Since the idea of "good" coffee is entirely subjective, there are a number of objective criteria that I look for instead - dark espresso crema, the correct volume of fluid in a shot and the correct extraction time, to name a few. Occasionally, I come across examples of coffee where something has gone wrong - here are two things that I've encountered recently.

 

I've noticed a trend lately in a number of cafes. If you order a latte and a cappuccino, you will receive two drinks which are virtually identical. This is a bad thing - there is a specific ratio of espresso to milk to foam for each drink.

 

A capuccino typically has a ratio of one third espresso, one third steamed milk and one third milk foam. The layer of foam is thicker than a latte for a specific reason - it imparts a smooth, silky mouthfeel to the drink. A latte differs in that it has a thinner layer of foam - the same mouthfeel is not present.

 

Honestly, I don't mind if an order is mixed up - in a busy cafe, it will happen, and it's not something to lose sleep over (I make a point of never, ever being rude to baristas or kitchen crew). However, there is a difference between getting an order wrong and simply not knowing the difference between different drinks - one is an understandable mix up, the other tells me a lot about a cafe, and it's attitude towards making coffee.

 

I wrote in a previous post that it's hard to make bad coffee with a good espresso shot. Hard, but not impossible. The cappuccino in the picture below looks good, but unfortunately it wasn't. The milk appears to have been steamed either at an incorrect temperature, or for an incorrect duration - this resulted in foam which did not have the usual smooth mouthfeel. The layer of foam was too thin, resulting in a drink that resembled a flat white instead, but with a layer of uneven foam on top - losing the best parts of each drink.

 

 

I've been to the cafe before, and this was the first bad experience that I've had there. Also, reviews on the blog are based around a series of visits over time - I won't write a bad review simply because of one bad experience. The espresso shot that I also had was good, and they do some interesting and creative things with drinks - I'll still be back.  

Chye Seng Huat Hardware

Chye Seng Huat Hardware, Singapore



CSHH is the new flagship venue of the Papa Palheta group. Located on Tyrwhitt Road (beside Jalan Besar stadium), CSHH is a roastery, retail space and coffee academy. The Steeping Room - previously a pop up space at Bras Basah - makes a welcome return in the form of the Annexe, a dedicated area for coffee and food pairing.  

Papa Palheta cafes tend to have a very distinct decor, feel and atmosphere - CSHH is no exception. The original shell of the hardware store is intact, with art deco lettering and exposed light fixtures enhancing the effect. The interior is bright, airy and contemporary - a new lease of life for one of the old workshops that was here before. Combined with a large retail space, this is not unlike Barista Jam in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong - a venue I like a lot.  

As always, I started by ordering an Espresso. The blend used was a combination of 

Brazilian Coromandel, Guatamelan Antigua and Ethiopian Sidamo. In general, Brazilian and Guatamelean coffees have hints of chocolate, and low acidity, while Ethiopian sidamo has a smooth aftertaste. The shot had an intense aroma, with a dark brown crema, indicitave of freshly roasted beans. There was a syrupy mouthfeel that I typically notice in shots from third wave outlets - this is an indicator that the shot has been extracted for the correct amount of time. The intensity and robust body of the shot was evident from the first tasting - the combination of dark chocolate paired with a citrus, floral notes gives rise to a complex, long lasting bouquet with perfect balance. The aftertaste lingers, and I could taste it long after I had finished my shot. Some things are simply better in their places of origin - like eating chicken rice in Singapore, or drinking Guinness in Dublin, drinking a Papa Palheta blend in CSHH was a coffee experience to savour. There were more notes, flavour and mouthfeel in the last few drops than in any number of shots from other cafes.

I ordered a Cappuccino also. It arrived with beautiful latte art and dark brown foam - a nice contrast of light and darkness. There was a lovely foamy, light texture with an intense coffee hit a few seconds later. The espresso did not dominate in this drink, even though it was a strong shot - the milk and espresso work in conjunction, a 1-2 punch straight to the pallete, where one hits right after the other. They accentuate each other rather than fight for dominance on your taste buds. The layer of foam on top was the correct thickness also - a simple thing, but not something that every cafe gets right.

This was one of the few coffees I've had where the espresso was clear and distinct in the aftertaste - you know it's a cappuccino that was made with a very specific blend - not something that I see everywhere - Oriole, Jimmy Monkey and Nylon would fall into this category also. You know that it's a Palheta shot in your cup when you taste it. I want to drag people here and say "You see? THAT's coffee! That thing! Not what you did!".

Viva la revolution 

  

The retail space is large and well stocked, with Chemex woodneck products, Hario Buono kettles paired with V60 pourover rigs, Aeropress and syphons all on display. There were 5 bean varities available also, which can be bought whole, or ground on request. Professional espresso machines and grinders are available. This is significant - the staff are are baristas who use machines such as these each day, rather than sales people who may receive comission for recommending a particular type.

Some other notable points are the menu, which has a wide variety of brewing types, and clever pairings of food to coffee. Also, I like the pairing of Jungle Beer (brewed in Admiralty) and Papa Palheta coffee - this is entirely consistent with the creative approach of Papa Palheta. I have not yet tried the Annexe, where food, coffee and alcohol pairings are explored more fully, but based on the work that has been done in CSHH to date (and from one or two experiments that are being prepared at present), this is something to look forward to.

In short, it's some of the best coffee that I've had. Papa Palheta may be no more, but the same intense, robust and complex shots live on in a quiet street at Jalan Besar.

Remembering Papa Palheta

Papa Palheta, Singapore

It was never just a coffee place.

 

 

 

It was a hidden gem, spread by word of mouth - a coffee roastery serving up fantastic shots behind an inconspicous row of shophouses on Bukit Timah Road. Hidden amongst the quiet conservation houses of Hooper Road, you would never suspect that it was there. Walking through the leafy courtyard rippling with conversations, into a busy serving area with a rich aroma of coffee in the air, and finally into the quieter, almost nostalgic indoor area 

was like walking into an underground coffee scene.

 

 

Papa Palheta had a unique atmosphere. This was partly due to the coffee and the location, but also due to the staff - they helped to make it what it was. Going to Papa Palheta every day (except Monday! Roasting day) was not just about going for coffee, it was going to a friends place. It was a coffee speakeasy where conversations about roasting profiles, extraction times, bean varieties - things that might be obscure to 99% of the population - were normal, and were coffee geekery was celebrated. The contrast between the enforced friendliness of franchise chains, and the genuine warm welcome - and passion for good coffee - from the staff at Papa Palheta - could not be more apparent.

 

I'm genuinely sorry to see Papa Palheta close, however the standard of coffee continues at CSHH, and the spirit of the place continues in the Annexe, and in some of the independent roasteries which have been set up since. 

A sincere and heartfelt thanks to the current and former staff for making Papa Palheta what was my favourite coffee roastery in any city, and in any country.

The last shots

Table Manners, Changi City Point

Table Manners, 5 Changi Business Park Central 1, Singapore

Table Manners is the latest venture from the team behind Bar Stories at Haji Lane. Bar Stories deserves a post of it's own - it's one of the most unique and memorable bars that I've visited, in any of the cities that I've lived in. It's sister outlet, Table Manners, has a unique selling point - the creativity of Bar Stories combined with the coffee crafting expertise of Papa Palheta. This would be a potent combination in any part of Singapore, but particularly so in an area that until recently has been starved of quality coffee. 

As always, I ordered an espresso and a cappuccino, two drinks that tell me a lot about the quality of coffee in any given cafe, bar or restaurant. The espresso shot was thick, with definite hints of citrus. This gave rise to a full bodied aftertaste that lingered long after the last drops of espresso had been gulped down. It seemed thicker and more potent than a regular shot - more akin to a ristretto - this was a shot that was extracted for the correct eighteen to thirty second extraction time. This may seem like a minor point, but it's an important one - it's harder to make bad coffee with a good espresso foundation.

The shot had a medium dark crema, which lined the side of the cup. It's interesting to note that a lot of the perceived bitterness in an espresso shot comes from the crema itself. If you carefully scoop the crema from a fresh espresso shot, it should taste extremely tart. Crema which clings to the side of a cup will not impart as much of this sharp flavour to a shot. This was a good shot by any standard, but it would also be a good shot for anyone who has not tried espresso shots before, or for anyone who has been turned off espresso by bad shots in franchise chain cafes.    

The cappuccino has a thin layer of foam, closer to that seen on a latte. As a result, the smooth and silky mouthfeel was reduced, making this a lighter cappuccino (I prefer mine stronger), but the quality of the drink was not overly diminished. The use of Papa Palheta beans is a clever choice for this drink - the lingering aftertaste ensures that the coffee flavour is not lost, and that this remains a quality coffee. One negative point however is that the coffee cups used are very thin, so that drinks tend to go cold much more quickly as a result. 

It's worth pointing out that coffees in Table Manners are notably less expensive than those in franchise chains. Why waste good money on bad coffee when Table Manners has Papa Palheta's beans?

Latte art is always a welcome sight, as it tells me that the baristas were trained to a high standard, and trained to care about quality coffee. This is consistent with my comments on the espresso shot being prepared correctly. The light dusting of cocoa powder ensured that little sweetness was imparted, and that the cocoa flavour accentuated rather than dominated the drink.

The food menu is worth a mention also - there is a good selection of starters, main courses and deserts, and an interesting menu that allows items to be paired according to the customers preferences. The prices are fair - they are certainly not overpriced - another point in their favour.

In a nutshell, the bright young staff at Table Manners are serving up quality coffee, made from quality beans in a quirky and interesting bar and restaurant. Bar Stories younger sibling is already off to a good start.  



Nylon Coffee, Singapore

Nylon Coffee Roasters, Everton Park, Singapore

I have a love / hate relationship with coffee franchise chains. I appreciate that they have helped to make coffee culture much more popular than it was previously, and it is now possible to get an espresso of known quality and consistency in most parts of the world. Some chains are certainly better than others, however there are still some examples where stale, over roasted beans are the norm, and where quantity takes precendence over quality. The skill set of the barista - the experience of tamping and pulling shots, of learning to assess the correct grind size for beans - is sadly reduced to the ability to press a button. Even worse, customers come out of franchise chains thinking that espresso shots are supposed to taste bitter, almost acrid.  

Fortunately, there is a large (and increasing) number of independent cafes and roasteries where the opposite applies, and which serve as test beds for new and innovative blends and brewing methods.The entire point of this blog is to highlight cafes where the owners committment to good coffee is evident. Nylon is one such example, where some superb single origin, third wave coffees can be found in a quiet residental corner of Outram Park. 

Nylon's house blend - El Primero - is a mixture of 60% Brazilian and 40% Nicaraguan beans. This results in an espresso with a medium dark crema, and a distinct flavour with citrus elements. I'm struck by the initial taste of the shot - it's not bitterness, it's a combination of a medium bodied espresso with distinct citrus flavours, and it's certainly something that I have not seen in most cafes. El Primero (along with Papa Palheta's PNG Peberry) is unique. Both are products of long hours spent working out pairings of beans to blend together, of coming up with roasting profiles for each blend, and experimenting with different ratios of beans. The time and effort that has gone into crafting each blend is obvious - this is the antithesis of every over roasted, over extracted coffee where any flavour or uniqueness was drowned in a sea of milk, whipped cream and caramel!

Nylon's 5oz coffee (below) is smooth with a nice subtle flavour, the latte art was beautiful. Aeropress and pour over coffees are also available, as well as occasional cold brews. I noticed that a digital scale was used for measurements, just as it was in Highlander. This is always a good indicator of quality coffee, as it suggests that the baristas have put thought and effort into the process. It also implies that a specific ratio of beans to water has been tailored to the house blend.

There is an interesting approach to the menu also. Rather than having conventional lattes and cappuccinos, there are 3oz, 5oz and 7oz sizes available. This is a clever idea - while some franchise chains serve what are essentially bowls of caffeinated warm milk, the owners of Nylon have ensured that a broad variety of preferences are catered for, while never losing the underlying coffee taste - coffee is always the most fundamental component of each drink. Furthermore, as milk is steamed, lactose becomes more soluble (coffeegeek.com has more information on this process), which imparts sweetness to the drink. Coffee which has been prepared correctly should not need sugar - this is one of the many things that are not merely done correctly at Nylon, but are done very, very well. Once again, Dennis and Jia Min's passion for coffee is evident throughout.

Sugar is typically not served at Nylon (although it is available if requested). This ensures that the underlying flavour of each coffee blend is not lost, and also has the welcome effect of exposing customers to the different flavours, acidity and balance of beans from different regions. This is something that I love to see happening - customers are subtly being educated with each cup! It also makes customers think about what they are drinking, which should only be encouraged.

A selection of coffee beans and accessories are available to purchase also - but rather than the usual selection of accessories that are available, Nylon have focused on more unique, hand made items. Kalita wave drippers sit alongside custom Japanese hand grinders, and a quirky wooden coffee scoop which doubles as a bag seal. It's a nice touch - an independent cafe that supports other independent businesses.  

Since opening a few months ago, Nylon has become one of my favourite coffee places, with consistently good coffee, and owners committed to making the best shots possible. This is definitely worth trying - don't waste good money on bad coffee at a franchise, when some superb shots are being pulled at Nylon!