La Ristretto's

Novena medical centre is exactly as you would expect - unremarkable corridors lined with doctors offices, waiting rooms, more doctors offices, yet more waiting rooms, and in the midst of all this, an unexpected outlier - a small and cosy Italian style cafe, serving up interesting ristretto shots. 

The inside is quite small and cosy, but the limited space is put to good use. A communal table lies in the centre of the room, flanked by counter seats, and a door that leads to a shaded outdoor seating area. Tampers and espresso shot cups line the shelves, while the staff pull shots at an open bar counter lined with espresso machines and grinders. I like the concept - it's always interesting to see the baristas at work, and for coffee geeks, to see the shots themselves being pulled. This can tell you a lot about the quality of coffee at a cafe - a spaghetti strand sized column of dark black liquid slowly lining a shot cup is a sign of good underlying espresso, while a 10 second downpour of pale brown liquid is a hint that you should quietly slip out the entrance without waiting for your drink. Fortunately, La Ristretto's shots were good examples of the former, with a 20 second extraction of potent espresso.  

The espresso shot had a medium brown crema, and a robust, full bodied flavour with distinct hints of chocolate. It was bright without being bitter, and potent without being burnt. The shot glass of water on the side is a nice touch also, and was used, as the serving size is a little larger than usual for a single shot. The coffee beans used were from Agust coffee roasters in Italy, which I haven't come across in Asia before, and are quite distinct in their own right. It's also interesting to be able to sample a robust Italian style espresso, which contrasts with the trend for citrusy single origin shots that are on offer in a number of cafes at present. 

The latte that I ordered had smooth foam, and a large serving size. It was quite mild, but the underlying espresso shot was muted rather than being completely lost, and could easily be detected in the aftertaste.  This may be the result of the larger espresso shot sizes mentioned earlier. The overall character was of coffee rather than warm milk, so despite the serving size, it avoids the easy mistake of serving warm caffeinated warm milk, rather than coffee. The foam maintained it's integrity throughout, without breaking up - a small detail, but one that's consistent with correct steaming temperature and duration, and something that I've seen a few cafes get wrong in recent weeks.

There is a good coffee menu on offer, with the usual combinations of espresso and milk, and brewed coffees. One thing that differs is the presence of shakerato on the menu (a shaken cold espresso), that I have not seen before, and something that I'm genuinely curious to see made. Prices were as expected, at 8.50 for the latte and espresso above.

Overall, La Ristretto's is interesting in that they are serving something genuinely different, and it's an opportunity to try a fairly authentic Italian espresso. The location may be an issue for some, in that it's in the middle of a medical centre, rather than in a standalone cafe. This should not deter you from visiting during non peak hours however, especially if you happen to be in the area. However do bear in mind that the cafe itself is quite small, so please let patients and staff take priority!

Loysel's Toy

The original Papa Palheta at Bukit Timah Road may have closed, but for those of us who miss the staff, the quiet courtyard, and the room that could have been from any city in any era, echoes and traces remain in a quiet cafe in a park by a river. Parts of it are still there, just slightly different than  before.

With songs from the 50's in the background, and old recycled wood given a new lease of life as tables and bar counters, Loysel's Toy in some respects resembles it's younger sibling, Chye Seng Huat Hardware. Loysel's Toy differs in that it has it's own identity, as a quiet haven in a riverside park. The busy interior section bustles with staff carrying coffees back and forth, with the cadence of conversations interrupted by the hiss of milk being steamed. Outside, the traffic and the city seem far away, as leaves rustle in in the breeze.

Loysel's Toy can be seen as an evolution of Papa Palheta. Papa Palheta was a coffee boutique, while Loysel's Toy was a full service cafe from it's very beginning. Some of the original concepts remain - a food menu which caters to what can be done well - but some new ideas have emerged over the years which have worked well. One is the bike rental option, which cleverly takes advantage of the riverside location. 

The most important part of any cafe is the quality of coffee, and regardless of location, this can make or break a cafe.  The espresso shot that I ordered consisted of a small volume of coffee, covered by a layer of medium dark brown crema. There was no bitterness evident, just a burst of robust, full bodied coffee, with hints of blackberry-like flavour present also. The potency never gave rise to burnt flavours - something that I have seen before in other cafes. This tells me that the roasting process has been very carefully controlled, and calibrated to bring out specific flavour elements in the coffee beans used. The mouthfeel is thicker than shots in other cafes, and tells me that the extraction time is right where it should be - not too long, bringing out bitterness, and not too short, leaving out some of the best parts of the ground coffee. It reminded me a lot of the espresso shots in the original Papa Palheta on Bukit Timah road, which remain as some of the best espresso shots that I have had in any city or country that I've been to. 

It's worth noting also that the water used in Loysel's Toy goes through an elaborate filtration process. It's an interesting touch that I don't see in every cafe, and speaks of the attention to detail, and the commitment to quality coffee, that was evident in the original Papa Palheta, and remains in Chye Seng Huat Hardware.

Lattes and milk based drinks in Loysel's Toy are single shot drinks. This is stated on the menu, and the option to add extra shots is available. This is certainly recommend, as the latte that I ordered was quite pale, and the robust espresso character above was lost, with milk as the dominant flavour. I added an extra espresso shot to the mix, and the difference was very, very evident. The potency was restored, but tempered by the milk, rather than being lost. Combined with the velvety smooth foam, and finished with some well executed latte art, the double shot latte combined the best elements of texture and flavour. 50 mls of fluid is a small volume of coffee, but it's sufficient to turn a very mild latte into a very good one indeed.



The coffee menu is exactly as expected - a good combination of espresso, milk based drinks, and brewed and filtered coffees. The addition of Chye Seng Huat Hardware has seen the coffee roaster move to Tyrwhitt Road, and the resulting space has been put to the good use with the addition of a brew bar. This allows for a variety of brewing methods to be catered for. A retail section is present also, with a mixture of coffee beans, keep cups, paper and chemex filters available. The retail section is smaller than Chye Seng Huat Hardware however, and does not contain the same extensive selection of items.

There were two different coffee blends available when I visited - the original Terra Firma blend, and the 1000 cups blend. Both are robust, but differ slightly in the levels of acidity evident in each.

It may be slightly out of the way, but the cafe in the park by the river is definitely worth visiting.

The Broers Cafe

Tucked away on a quiet side street between Jalan Besar and little India, and flanked by a quaint row of shophouses, The Broers cafe is a calm little corner that seems far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city. 

The espresso shot below had a dark crema, and an earthy, sweet aroma. The mouthfeel lacked the syrupy sweet consistency that some shots have, and was lighter and looser, more watery than viscous. My initial impression was of a strong and potent flavour, with tempered bitterness, and an aftertaste that builds after a few seconds. It's a straightforward shot that is ok, but one which lacks the complexity that I see in shots elsewhere, and does not stand out as a result. It may be that the shot is slightly over extracted, which would have an impact on the flavour and consistency. 

The cappuccino had a layer of smooth microbubbles, steamed to the right consistency, and imparts a silky smooth mouthfeel. The latte art is a nice touch, and is always good to see - it means that time and effort has gone into the process. Unfortunately, the underlying coffee character is almost entirely lost, and is drowned out by the milk and foam mixture - I just couldn't taste it. The dominant flavour is that of the milk, rather than the underlying espresso shot. It's fine for anyone who prefers a very light cappuccino, but if your preference is for stronger drinks, it's advisable to ask for an extra shot. 

There are some positives here though. There is a good menu selection for drinks, both hot and cold, as well some interesting brews that the crew have come up with themselves - they definitely score points for trying something new. There is also a very calm atmosphere, with soft, diffused light, and simple white walls contrasted against a dark wood floor - it's definitely a cafe to sit uninterrupted with a book.

It's a good choice for anyone who wants a calm, quiet place to sit uninterrupted with a book, but for complex shots, and  variety of different blends and single origin beans,  there is another well regarded cafe / roastery nearby on Tyrwhitt Road, with some very, very good coffee indeed. 

Symmetry Cafe, Singapore

It's an interesting street scene - a quiet backdrop of traditional fabric shops and food stalls, with the quiet of a weekday afternoon occasionally broken by the call to prayer from Kampong Glam mosque. It's been like that for years, with shops being passed down from generation to generation. Lately however, the area around Arab Street in Singapore has been transformed, with an increasing number of interesting cafes to be found. 

Symmetry is one such example. Located along a quiet side street (Jalan Kubor) just off Victoria Street, the nondescript exterior hides the contemporary bare brick walls and wood panelleling of the third wave cafe within.  

Symmetry is also home to the second Slayer machine in Singapore (at the time of writing) - the original is in Jimmy Monkey, at One North. The potential for good things exists - but has the potential been realised? As always, I ordered an espresso and cappuccino - two drinks that tell me a lot about the quality of coffee in any cafe. 

Espresso - there was a dark reddish brown crema, which indicates that the coffee beans used were roasted fairly recently. The volume was roughly correct for an espresso shot, maybe a little higher than in other third wave cafes though. The lack of white specks on the crema suggests that this was not an over extracted shot however, which would have an adverse effect on the quality of coffee. My first impressions were of a slight acidity, which faded slightly in the aftertaste - not uncommon with beans from South America. The shot is not too astringent, as the acidity seems to be tempered by the flavour of a more earthy, darker roasted bean in the mix. The end result is a balanced shot. 

The cappuccino arrived with well executed latte art, which is always a good sign - it shows that there is attention to detail, but more importantly that the barista has spent time and effort perfecting their craft. The microbubbles give a smooth mouthfeel, but the underlying characteristics of the espresso were still present - they were muted but not eliminated. This was a combination of milk, foam and espresso that complemented each other, rather than a mismatch of each. 

One things I did notice however - this was potent - I definitely felt the effects of caffeine afterwards. Slayer machines pack a double ristretto into each shot, rather than a conventional espresso shot - please bear this in mind when you order! 

Overall, there are well executed (but potent!) shots being served on a quiet corner of Jalan Kubor, and the presence of a slayer machine is certainly worth noting. The price was approximately $10 - $12 for an espresso and cappuccino, with a variety of food and drink options available also. 

EspressoLab, Singapore

Sometimes, less is more. The absence of certain qualities can be a positive thing - for example, a cafe that focuses on quality coffee, rather than one that sells tall skinny soy rotated twisted fruit infused concoctions, that if you close your eyes and concentrate, might even have some faint taste of coffee in there somewhere. On Bali lane in Singapore, a quiet haven for quality coffee has appeared, in the form of EspressoLab. 

The first thing I noticed was the atmosphere - some cafes have it, others don't. This is a laid back, bright and airy cafe, with light filtering onto a wooden floor. 

As always, I look for things that tell me about the owners intent and attitude towards coffee. The brew bar was a good place to start, with a syphon, a Chemex Woodneck brewer, a French press and a Hario Buono pourover kettle all on display. What does this tell me? It indicates that a variety of brewing methods are being practiced, from the clean extraction coffees of the Chemex and syphon, to the more potent and full bodied coffees of the pourover and French press. It's also a good setup for a coffee appreciation class, in which various brewing methods can be used to highlight differences in coffees from around the world. This is a good start - it suggests that the intent is to expose customers to different types of coffees and brewing methods. 

Two different coffees - an espresso and a cappuccino - tell me a lot about the quality of coffee used, and about the baristas also. 

The espresso shot was akin to a ristretto - a small volume of espresso topped with a dark reddish brown crema. A combination of beans from Brazil, Columbia, Guatemala and Indonesia, it's certainly one of the more interesting shots that I've tried lately. It was certainly potent, with the initial intensity slowly giving rise to wisps of earthy flavours, which were reminiscent of malt or cherry. It was a well executed shot, and it was obvious that the roasting process was tailored to bring out the flavours in each of the different beans used.  

The cappuccino below arrived with some impressive latte art, with sharp, defined edges of milky white foam contrasted against a dark brown background. Silky smooth microbubbles added the required mouthfeel, and  the correct ratio of milk to foam to coffee was present, so that all 3 combined perfectly. It was a little light though, with the double shot of espresso quite muted by the milk and foam - not all of the complexity of the espresso was evident. However, it's still a good, well executed cappuccino that I would have no problem ordering again. 

This is a good choice of cafe for lingering over a book with a cup of coffee to hand. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable about coffee, and contribute so much to the atmosphere - it's not something that every cafe can get right. Together with coffee, it's something that EspressoLab does well, and makes it worth a visit. 

In my case, this is probably true...

Oriole Cafe, Singapore

It started with a Google search, and a conversation with a barista. I was looking for quality espresso shots in Singapore, having just moved from Hong Kong. He came back with one recommendation - just one - not because of a lack of quality coffee, but because one cafe stood out from the others. 

With a series of wins in the Singapore barista championship, an annual latte art throwdown and a coffee roastery and retail business, Oriole is an established part of the Singapore coffee scene. It's also one cafe that I go back to on a regular basis. Starting with a flagship cafe, bar and restaurant in 313 Somerset, Oriole has expended to include a new roastery in Chinatown (Jiak Chuan road) and a cafe in Republic Plaza.

313 Somerset

Jiak Chuan Road

The espresso shot below had a golden brown crema, consistent with coffee beans which have been roasted recently - exactly what I would expect from an established coffee roastery. Inhaling deeply, I could identify a very distinct, almost floral aroma, and no burnt or charred notes. The initial impression was of citrusy and berry-like flavours, which were neither too tart nor astringent. This was complemented by a slightly viscous, syrupy mouthfeel, and the correct volume for an espresso shot. Each of the elements of a good shot were there, combining to create a shot that was so much more than a combination of ground beans and steam. 

There are also some interesting combinations of caffeine and milk happening above Somerset station. The espresso shot above was paired with silky smooth microbubbles, resulting in a balanced drink, but a cappuccino which retained it's potency. The aftertaste lingered, with sweetness evident in the foam - this occurs when milk is steamed at the correct temperature, increasing the solubility of the lactose. Unlike a lot of cafe's, I could also taste the citrus notes in the milk, a nice touch that I don't always see. 

Piccolo latte's are also a speciality in Oriole - I've mentioned them before in a previous post. The piccolo below was beautiful - built upon a foundation of a double ristretto, with potency tempered by smooth foam. Ristretto on the menu is always a good sign - think of it as an even more intense espresso, consisting of the first 10 seconds of extraction, unlike a regular espresso shot which extracts for 18 - 30 seconds. For coffee lovers, the presence of ristretto on the menu is a subtle indication that the level of coffee knowledge on the part of the staff is higher than average - it suggests an understanding of the effect of different extraction times for a shot. 

Each Oriole cafe has a different look and atmosphere, with the bustling crowds and sleek glass facade of 313 Somerset contrasting with the quieter, old world wood panelled charm of the roastery at Jiak Chuan road. Both are worth visiting, although it should be noted that the 313 Somerset venue is a full service cafe, bar and restaurant, while the roastery at Jiak Chuan road
has a better selection of coffee retail items (also, the quality of drinks in the Republic plaza venue can be inconsistent at times). Although this is not a food blog, the sticky toffee pudding at 313 Somerset deserves a mention. It's a combination of a warm, dense pudding paired with a sweet caramel glaze and cold ice cream - absolutely something that should be tried. Friendships have nearly ended fighting over the last bit.

Over the course of multiple visits to 313 Somerset and Jiak Chuan, I've had consistently good coffee, and some well crafted shots - years later, my barista friends recommendation still holds up. Both are worth visiting, and deserve their reputations for quality coffee. 

Jewel Coffee, Singapore

There are certain things that I associate with Shenton Way in Singapore. Suits, skyscrapers and spreadsheets, to name just the things that begin with "s". Single origin coffee can now be added to the list, in the form of Jewel Coffee, beneath the polished glass and steel exterior of One Shenton.

Jewel played a role in my coffee education, in the form of a cupping / coffee appreciation session after work on evening in Changi. I spent an evening learning to appreciate the differences between different blends and varities of beans from different regions, and even today I still use some of the lessons learned that evening.

Espresso shots tell me a lot about a cafe. The crema tells me how fresh the beans are, the volume of fluid tells me if the extraction time is correct, and the taste tells me if the roasting profile is suitable for the bean. So how did Jewel measure up?

The volume was perfect, with a medium dark crema. The dominant flavour in the shot is citrus - but it's a shot where the astringency is very evident - as much a sensation as a flavour, an intense hit of citrus that awakens your taste buds, with an aftertaste that fades out slowly. The mouthfeel has some syrupy elements, but not overwhelmingly so either.

The choice of single origin beans is a nice touch - when I visited, beans from Costa Rica and El Salvador were being served. Each has distinct tasting notes (mandarin orange hits and brown sugar for the Costa Rica, lingering sweetness and dark fruits for the El Salvador), however I found that the citrus elements were dominant in each. I'll never complain about single origin coffees on a menu - it's a sign of how far coffee culture has come, and it directly benefits the farmers who grow the beans in question. However, it could be a good idea to have one strong citrus single origin and one robust, earthy and less floral single origin paired with each other. This is not a complaint by any means, just a recognition of different tastes and preferences.

The cappuccino that I ordered came with smooth foam that complemented, rather than drowned out, the underlying coffee flavour. The layer of microbubbles added the required smooth mouthfeel, while allowing the coffee flavour to dominate. The layer of foam and serving size were just as they should be, ensuring that this was separate and distinct from a latte. The latte art, and contrast of light on medium dark foam, was a welcome touch.

There is a very good selection of drinks on the menu, with Chemex, V60, Syphon and Iced coffees available. I always like to see Chemex coffees available - it's notable for producing very clean brews which highlight the underlying characteristics of each blend or variety. It's a good method to begin to appreciate the differences in blends from different regions.

There are some retail items available also - I spotted Chemex and V60 pourover accessories on the shelf. The bean selection is quite good, with beans from Guatamela (Antigua), El Salvador (El Cordon), Nicaragua (Los placeros), Ethiopia (Sidamo) and Sumatra available, for $18 each.

This is a good choice for quality coffee if you work in the Shenton way area, along with Oriole and Club St Social - but it is more expensive, with a single espresso priced at $4.20. The sheer choice of coffee blends and brewing types makes this worth visiting however.

Smitten Coffee and Tea Bar, Singapore

Over the last few years, Robertson Quay has been transformed from a quiet residental strip by the Singapore river, into an eclectix mix of restaurants and cafes. Every new apartment block seems to bring with it a new French bistro, or a Japanese teppanyaki grill straight from the winding alleys of Shinjuku. The overall effect is that the area reminds me of Clarke Quay, if the bars were replaced by restaurants. Hidden amongst the mix of eateries is a small cafe that is punching above it's weight - Smitten Coffee and Tea bar.

This is a roastery that seems to be bigger on the inside that it appears on the outside. The use of space is clever - by placing most of the seating outside, Smitten can function as a roastery, retail space and full service cafe. The fact that it is a roastery allows Smitten to compete with larger cafes - their coffee is always fresh, and they have their own unique blends on the rack. The retail space is very specalised - tampers, cone drippers, stovetop espresso makers, filter baskets, grinders, and knock boxes line the shelves - this is a good option for any aspiring home barista.

 

The espresso shot I ordered came with a dark brown crema, and the correct volume of liquid for a single shot. No surprises there - dark brown cremas are the product of beans which have been roasted recently. This was a nicely balanced shot, combining an underlying tempered robustness with tart notes. The astringency is fine, neither too bitter nor too overpowering, and the mouthfeel has more syrupy than watery characteristics. So far, so good.

The first thing that I noticed on the cappuccino below was the latte art - there is a distinct contrast of light on dark, and very defined borders. The foam layer is fine - the thickness is ideal, remaining intact until the last drops of coffee are consumed. It seems like something small to single out, but i'm surprised at how many cafe's get this wrong. The microbubbles in the foam added smoothness, and took the edge off the strong underlying espresso shot. The aftertaste does not linger, making this a "clean", mellow drink - the coffee hit is in the first few seconds. It's a balanced, well executed cappuccino with no issues.

There are also alternatives available for people who prefer brewed or pourover coffees. V60 and Chemex brews are availble, with beans from Brazil, Ethiopia (Yirgacheffe) and Tanzania (Kilamanjaro). There is also a selection of cakes and deserts available too.

This is the little cafe that could - it's punching above it's weight, and turning out some decent, consistent shots - this is a good choice for a lazy Sunday by the river.

Jimmy Monkey

I could smell coffee while I was walking up to the cafe. This is a good thing, and generally speaks of good things to come.

 

One North is a hive of activity during the week, a hub of biomedical and scientific research in the West of Singapore. In a quiet corner of One North Residences, research of a different kind is taking place. Interesting blends of beans are being paired together, in a little corner of Melbourne which has been transported to Singapore - Jimmy Monkey cafe and bar.

 

 

I've mentioned Jimmy Monkey in previous posts - their Piccolo latte stands out in particular - and it's a haven for coffee lovers in the West of the island. Jimmy Monkey is also a full service bar and restaurant, and provides a number of good reasons to catch a circle line to One North station.

 

Anyone who has read the blog before will have a good idea of how this works. Over the course of a series of visits, I order drinks (usually an espresso and cappuccino) that tell me a lot about a cafe, and the quality of coffee. So how did Jimmy measure up?

 

Fly, my pretty, fly!

 

Espresso - this was a potent, robust and strong shot with a lingering aftertaste, but also a good balance of taste and flavours. This is not surprising - Jimmy Monkey's Ironbark blend is a combination of beans from Brazil (Cerrado), Papua New Guinea (Sigri), Columbia (Kachru), Guatamala (La Laguna) and Peru (Amazonas). There is also a Columbian single origin blend available, which works well in pourover coffee. Each bean variety contributes something unique to the shot - hints of citrus, and even some chocolate notes. Ironbark is a blend that is still evolving, and is now on it's third iteration (version 3.142, according to the note on the grinder - a nice in joke, along with some pop culture references hidden on the menu! It doesn't take a lot to make my day). The experimentation has paid off, leaving a full bodied shot with a lingering aftertaste. The home made biscotti is a nice touch, with hints of orange complementing the citrus notes in the shot.

 

 

The cappuccino below was notable for the initial strong hit of coffee flavour, complemented by smooth, light foam and finished with well executed latte art. The microbubbles in the foam add the smooth, silky mouthfeel that I look for, and is seen in quality cafes. This is where Ironbark is used to good effect - the lingering aftertaste is a strong base for a milk based drink, ensuring that the fundamental coffee character is retained.

 

 

I had a Piccolo also, which is characterised by a more robust coffee taste, with the aftertaste lasting through the milk and foam. The milk complements the robust coffee flavour, smoothing it but not smothering it, creating a hybrid which retains the best characteristics of each - its just right and well executed. Their original place in the piccolo latte hall of fame post is deserved, and retained. There are also pourover, syphon and chemex coffees available. 

 

 

The effort that has gone into setting up Jimmy Monkey is evident in a number of ways. The interior is almost industrial, with high ceilings, a smooth cement barista counter and some quirky touches hidden in plain sight (hint - look up at the ceiling when you are inside. You'll know it when you see it). A Giesen roaster sits across from a Slayer machine, one of only two in Singapore at present. Slayer machines are expensive - really expensive - and for good reason. They offer significant levels of control over a number of variables (pressure, temperature etc), and have some clever design features - notably, the double ristretto that makes up every shot. A ristretto differs from a conventional espresso shot, in that it is comprised of the first ten seconds of extraction from a shot. As a result, ristrettos are punches of flavour, which are never watered down. Ristrettos are a good choice for milk drinks, as the underlying characteristics of the shot are not lost in a sea of milk. From speaking to the staff, and from the quality of coffee served, I doubt that this would happen here.

 

 

A quality machine is a good start, but the quality of the staff is an even more important factor. This is where Jimmy Monkey shines. The staff are attentive without being intrusive, picking up small details that might go unnoticed - for example, spotting that it was my wife's birthday and getting a cake ready without being asked. Small things like this result in customers becoming regulars.

 

Cafes which celebrate coffee geekery (Papa Palheta, you are sorely missed) are to be treasured, and the owner, Michael, was considerate enough enough to talk in detail about the Slayer machine. The level of detail was telling - down to the description of modifications to group heads to prevent heat loss, and of modifications to compensate for the loss in pressure and heat when multiple shots are pulled in quick succession. Coffee conversations like this result in me attaining a state of coffee nirvana, or in my case, nerdvana.

 

It's shiiiiiiny....

 

I don't normally comment on food, but this is a good place to see a busy kitchen in action, with a kitchen crew that turn orders around quickly, but who still take the time to check and plate carefully. The end results work, with some impressive creations crosing the counter. They don't skimp on portions either. It can fill up quickly though, so it's advisable to stop by earlier in the morning - there are no reservations on weekends, but the staff are flexible and helpful.

 

 

 

 

Since opening, Jimmy Monkey has been a regular part of my coffee treks around the island. Based on todays (and previous) visits, I'd recommend that anyone who likes quality coffee do the same.